It’s not often I print, cut and sew a pattern almost immediately after purchase! I usually like to plan the hell out of my sewing projects, and sometimes I go around in circles until I talk myself out of those plans. But for some reason the Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet prompted me to take a leap.
Overalls / dungarees / bib & braces – call them what you will, I LOVE LOVE LOVE them! And I really wanted a pair for the summer; so when an Instagram pic of some gorgeous tropical leaf Yanta Overalls popped up on my screen I was sold. This pattern has only been available since the beginning of May, so there aren’t a whole lot of Instagram makes to check out, but the ones that have been made all look fantastic! I bought the pattern right away and it went straight to the top of my makes list!
After reading through the instructions, I made a quick calico toile of a straight size 12 just to check if I could do away with the side zip (one of Helen’s handy little tips) and to be sure that there was enough length in the body; helpfully the pattern does include multiple lengthen / shorten lines in different places, and instructions on how to adjust fit if necessary - but the toile was actually fine.
The pattern has front and back waist darts, which gives a really nice shape to the silhouette and prevents gaping sides that might otherwise leave you feeling exposed. It also has multiple pockets! I love the angled bib pocket – it’s the perfect place for a seam ripper or snips to be stashed away while sewing; or maybe a place to hold your choc ice, now that the sun finally has his hat on.
The fabric is a bottle green cotton drill, which I originally intended to make a jumpsuit with, and I used off-cuts of a lovely matching floral cotton for the facings and bias bound seams. The only thing I needed to buy for this make were the two buttons, which at 34p was no big spend (although I needed to pay by card and so I ended up buying Mr Distracted some fabric for a shirt as well...but that doesn’t count right?).
I would have finished sewing these in a day, but I ran out of thread just as I got to making the straps! The inseam and side seams are finished with an overcast stitch, and not having an over-locker means I either have to keep changing both machine threads to a secondary colour or buy more of the colour matching thread. I took a gamble on one and a half reels being enough…but I was wrong.
I added in some bias binding to the side seams from mid-calf to hem - just enough to make a rolled-up leg look pretty. And when I came to sew on the buttons, I opted for a different pair than I had bought (ooops) as I really liked how these lemon-yellow ones complemented the green fabric. The instructions recommend turning the straps and adjusting the length before sewing the strap end together, which I did; however it was really difficult to neatly finish this small seam and next time I think I would sew the three sides of the straps before turning them to ensure a nice crisp finish. I did later see on Instagram that someone had just overlocked this edge – which is a really nice effect, however as I don’t yet have an over-locker this isn’t an option for me.
This is my first Helen’s Closet pattern I’ve made and it’s fab! The instructions are really easy to understand, and Helen provides some handy little hints and tips as you go along. I’m pretty sure I’ll make these again with a couple of fitting mods, mainly because I’ve already ordered some lightweight printed fabric with a fun summer pair in mind…now just to find the time to make them!